Kanelbullar

 Ingredients

  • 500gwheat flour
  • 100gpowdered sugar
  • 100gsoft butter
  • 30vlwhole milk
  • 1egg
  • 6gsalt
  • 20gyeast
  • 40gpowdered sugar
  • 2Ceylon cinnamon

Preparation tips



For 20 pieces:

  1. In a salad bowl (or the bowl of the mixer), put the fresh yeast in a little lukewarm milk.
  2. Then mix all the dough ingredients and knead (preferably by hand or in a robot) until you obtain a smooth and elastic dough.
  3. Cover the dough with cling film and leave to rest for at least 2 hours. It should double in volume.
  4. Make the cinnamon butter by mixing the butter, cinnamon and sugar. You will obtain a homogeneous and consistent dough.
  5. Once the dough has risen, roll it out into a rectangle measuring approximately 30 x 40 centimeters. Then spread with the cinnamon butter and roll without tightening too much.
  6. Then cut slices approximately 3cm thick. Place them on a baking tray on a sheet of baking paper, leaving space between each Kanelbullar. Leave to rise again, about 1 hour.
  7. To give them a golden appearance, brush them with egg yolk using a brush.
  8. Bake at 190° for 15 minutes.
  9. It's ready, all you have to do is enjoy!

A forbidden spice? : Tonka bean and coumarin.

 Coumarin is a substance with a sweet, pleasant odor, reminiscent of the smell of hay and naturally present in many plants. It is found in Tonka bean, Cassia Cinnamon, Ceylon Cinnamon, Pompona vanilla, honey, tea, etc.

In Cinnamon, we find it concentrated in Cassa Cinnamon (from China which is found everywhere), Saigon Cinnamon. Ceylon Cinnamon contains very little (63 times less than Cassa Cinnamon). For the Tonka bean it is present from 1 to 3% of the weight of the bean.



The Tonka Bean, however, contains less coumarin than the following plants: sweet clover, clary sage, true lavender, sweet woodruff (medieval vanilla), ash, Roman chamomile, German chamomile or matricaria, yarrow or even chestnut bark.

The cosmetic industry knows coumarin very well. It was even one of the first aromatic syntheses carried out towards the end of the 19th century (1868) by the English chemist William H. Perkin. A few years later, in 1882, Paul Parquet used this synthetic molecule to create Fougère royale, a perfume from the eponymous house founded in 1775 by Jean-François Houbigant (now H for men), then Aimé Guerlain used it for Jicky, iconic perfume in 1889. (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coumarine)

The majority of people can consume foods that naturally contain coumarin every day without experiencing adverse health effects. However, there are a small number of individuals who are sensitive to coumarin. For these people, consuming higher concentrations than normally found in foods can lead to elevated liver enzymes and, in severe cases, liver inflammation  .

It is common to hear that the use of the Tonka bean is prohibited. It is in fact only for two countries: the USA in 1954 and Belgium in 1977.

The Codex Alimentarius (international recommendation for the field of food) recommended in 1985 not to add pure coumarin as such to foods and drinks.

In 2004 and again in July 2008, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) recommended an acceptable daily intake (ADI) of 0.1 mg coumarin/kg body weight.

Tonka Bean and coumarin:

Regarding the Tonka bean: coumarin is present from 1 to 3% in a Tonka bean. The weight of a Tonka bean ranges between 1.2 and 1.8 g. Let's take the high value 1.8g and a high coumarin content of 3%. Which gives us, if we eat the whole bean, a weight of 54 mg. However, the daily recommendation is 0.2 mg/body weight. Thus, an assimilated Tonka bean for a person weighing 65 kg represents 54 mg while the maximum daily dose is 6 mg.

Could this be the end of the Tonka bean?

No of course, we have forgotten two main elements in this reasoning: frequency and proportion. This reasoning applies in the case where you eat a whole bean, but in your cooking you will incorporate it into a dish, a dessert or you will only eat one or two portions. Then the recommendations of food safety authorities are based on daily consumption. The risk is indeed present if you devour whole chocolate and Tonka bean fondants daily, over a long period of time.

In the end we are still on the same principle of dose. Many spices in high doses can also be very harmful (nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, etc.).

 

We will remember this famous quote from the Swiss physician-philosopher of the Middle Ages: “All things are poison, and nothing is without poison; only the dose makes something not poison

So biodegradable, compostable, recyclable, biosourced?

 Today there are several notions regarding “green” packaging, which is more virtuous for the environment. It is sometimes difficult to see clearly between the notions of biodegradability, compostability, recyclability and biosourced. Let’s take a quick look at these concepts.

Some definitions first:

Biodegradability: Biodegradability will apply to an organic product that can decompose in a favorable environment and under the action of microorganisms. It will therefore decompose naturally depending on the conditions of temperature, humidity, light or oxygen. Its decomposition must not be harmful to the environment. Thus, a tree leaf is biodegradable (around 3 weeks) while a plastic bottle is not (around 400 years)




Today it is forbidden to mention this concept on packaging. The definition of the term biodegradable is not the subject of any scientific consensus. This technical and legal vagueness is damaging in the fight against plastic pollution. It will therefore be prohibited to affix this notice to products and packaging as of January 1, 2022.

http://www.assemblee-nationale.fr/dyn/15/amendements/2274/CION-DVP/CD966

So the notion of biodegradable packaging ultimately only concerns natural packaging: a banana peel, an eggshell, etc. It's our home compost! (including of course only elements of plant origin)

Compostable: French law speaks of composting to designate the “biological treatment of organic waste by aerobic fermentation to obtain compost”. A compostable product is therefore biodegradable, but the opposite is not necessarily true. The EN 13432 standard specifies that, for a product to be compostable, 90% of its initial dry mass must have biodegraded in less than 3 months.

Composting must be carried out in dedicated facilities (domestic or industrial). Industrially, compostable is helped by favorable conditions (temperatures between 70 and 80°C)

Most packaging offered on the market today is industrially compostable. They are mainly made with corn or potato starch. Effective decomposition must in fact take place in an industrial composter with specific conditions (oxygen, temperature). This is a process that can take several months even when good conditions are met.

This regularly feeds posts that we see on social networks or a biodegradable bag or a coffee capsule (made from corn starch or potato starch, etc.) does not disintegrate in a domestic compost or In the ground. The disintegration conditions are not met and your capsule or bag will still be there. The consumer is faced with a fallacious argument making him believe that he can throw this into his compost or into nature and that the solution is virtuous. Compostable absolutely does not mean that we can naturally throw this product into nature.

You can only put packaging in your home compost where this concept is specified. Of particular note is the OK Compost Home label which guarantees that your product can go into your compost.
Just like the vague notion of biodegradability, it will be prohibited for plastic packaging as of 01/01/2022 to include the notion of compostability.
https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/codes/article_lc/LEGIARTI000041555718/2022-01-01

Biosourced: This notion does not indicate the destination of your packaging after use. It only indicates that the raw materials used are of biological origin (plant, animal, algal, residual).  This provides information on the composition of the packaging.

Recyclable: A product is recyclable when it can, at the end of its first use, be reintroduced into the making of another product. (Metal, Steel, Cardboard, Paper, Glass, Plastics, etc…)

It is an age-old practice which aims to reuse the raw material of one object to make another. In clear progress in our country, in 2019 we reached 69% of household packaging which was recycled.

https://www.citeo.com/le-mag/les-chiffres-du-recyclage-en-france/

Paper/cardboard are the most virtuous packaging in terms of carbon footprint when recycled. Contrary to popular belief, glass is the worst consumer of energy for its recycling (on average 4 times more CO2 and energy emitting than for recycling paper/cardboard) This is due to both its weight and cost of transport, storage and the energy needed to fuse it.

The kind of spice, a spice or a spice?

 The origin of the word spice comes from the Latin species literally meaning species. In the spoken versions of Latin from the 3rd and 6th centuries it derived to define a substance, a commodity, a spice. We can note that the original word “species” is indeed a feminine noun.

We note, and we define it as such, the first written appearance of the word spice in the Song of Charlemagne's Pilgrimage to Jerusalem. (mid-12th century)

Stanza XII, line 211:

Four but fud li reis in Jersalem the city;

II et li duze per, dear cumpanie,

They remain a great barn, because the emperor is rich. 

A muster of Saint Mary begins:

Li hums the earth and claims it in Latin,

Because the language I come from trestute the city;

They sell their wings, their heads and their siries,

Coste, cinnamon, pepper, other spices

And many good herbs that I didn't know how to tell.

Deus is uncore and he who can do justice!

Charlemagne evokes the merchants who sell ginger (Coste), Cinnamon (Canele), Peppers (Peivre) and other good spices (altres bones espices)



In the Middle Ages the word spice came to encompass all kinds of preparations, often sweets (jams, sugared almonds) in which spices were sometimes found. We even had a responsible person in charge of these sweets who was called the king's grocer. In the Roman de la Rose, a medieval poetic work, we find traces of it: “And many a delitable spice That a good mangier makes after the table”

Note again that the word spice is also feminine at this time. In the various Renaissance texts the word spice, which has the same contemporary definition, is also used in the feminine form.

Despite attempts at in-depth research, we could perhaps have found in the past a plausible explanation for the use of the masculine instead of the feminine to determine the spice. But no, no trace.

Although today we sometimes note the use of the word spice in the masculine, spice is indeed a feminine noun: A spice!

Gently spiced oatmeal pancakes, leek fondue

 Ingredients

  • 80g oatmeal
  • 2eggs
  • 1onion
  • -a few brown parsley
  • 1kg of leeks
  • -olive oil
  • 1Vegetable Cuisine
  • 1Curry Homemade Recipe
  • -salt
  • -pepper

Preparation tips



1. Peel the onion, slice it finely and cook it covered for 10 minutes.

with olive oil and special “Cuisine Végétale” spices in a non-stick pan.

2. Wash and finely slice the leeks.

3. Chop the parsley.

4. In a container, mix the oat flakes, a pinch of salt, the chopped parsley and the cooked onion with the “vegetable cooking” spice mix. Add the beaten eggs with about 2 tbsp of water. Leave to rest for 15 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a frying pan, put them

sliced ​​leeks and let simmer for 20 min. approximately.

6. Drop spoonfuls of the dough into a hot, well-oiled pan. Cover to cook on one side (2 to 3 min.) then turn the patties over

using a spatula and cook the other side (about 2 min.). You can make 8 pancakes.

7. Serve the pancakes with the leek fondue.

Stewed lentils with rosemary, pumpkin and leek

 Ingredients

  • 1onion
  • 250ggreen lentils
  • 600gpumpkin
  • 600gleeks
  • 1sprig of rosemary
  • 1vegetable stock cube
  • 1ras-el-hanout
  • 1cinnamon
  • -salt
  • -pepper

Preparation tips



1. Peel and finely slice the onion. Wash and slice the leeks into rounds (removing some of the green).

2. Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a frying pan and brown the onion and sliced ​​leeks for 5 minutes.

3. Add the lentils, stock cube, spices and cover with water. Simmer for 5 minutes. covered. Lightly salt and pepper.

4. Meanwhile, remove the skin from the pumpkin and cut it into medium cubes.

5. Then add the pumpkin and rosemary to the pan and cook for 15 to 20 minutes more, covered.

6. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

7. Serve hot and enjoy

The history of pepper, or how this trade shaped the world.

 Archaeological evidence of pepper dates back to at least 2000 BC. We know that pepper was exported during this period, but by what means and to what extent remains a mystery. Indeed, traces of a probable ancient trade in Indian pepper in Egypt have been discovered, the presence of peppercorns both in the nostrils and in the stomach of Ramesses the Great (1303-1213 BC) (Bulletins and Memoirs of the Society of Anthropology of Paris, Radiochromodensitographic study on Ramses carried out by Lichtenberg and Thuilliez in 1981)

From the 40s AD, the Romans developed a flourishing trade in spices and particularly pepper. Leaving from the southwest coast of India, taking advantage of the monsoon winds, they imported cinnamon, incense oil and pepper. Alexandria was at the time the trading center for this trade.

Although the book was written a few centuries after his death, the collection by Apicius, a famous gastronome from the beginning of the 1st century, describes a multitude of Roman recipes containing spices including pepper.


Pisane map, one of the first maps dating from the 13th century.

We also see the high price of pepper appearing in the few writings that have come down to us. Indeed, in September 408, Alaric I, King of the Visigoths and his army besieged Rome. The exhausted and hungry Romans eventually surrendered and paid a ransom. The price to pay was 2,500 kg of gold, 15,000 kg of silver, 4,000 silk robes, 3,000 skins and 1,500 kg of pepper . https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaric_Ier ). Pepper was already compared to a precious metal!

In the middle Ages :

After the fall of the Roman Empire and from the 7th century, the Arabs organized themselves to resume the spice trade. In order to maintain their monopoly they invented a whole myth (source: Spices and Late-Medieval European Ideas of Scarcity and Value Paul Freedman) according to which pepper was cultivated in India in valleys infested with snakes. It was then necessary to burn the trees in order to make the snakes disappear. The fire then gave the black color to the skin of the peppercorns, they said.

This shows the importance at that time of this trade where one completely protected its sources and by any means!



The pepper trade became more and more flourishing from the 10th century onwards, spreading throughout Europe. With this increase in demand, prices soared and taxes, rents or dowries were sometimes paid in cash. For example, the King of England Ethelred II (978-1016) demanded 10 pounds of pepper from German spice traders before letting them do business in London (source: Spice Crop EA Weiss).

With the rise of the bourgeoisie in the Middle Ages, having pepper was part of the “standing” of the time. Thus this pressure significantly increased demand and therefore pushed prices up further. This forced the strongholds to develop the trade in spices including pepper. In the 14th century, the Genoese massively imported pepper from Alexandria. Exactly between 1367 and 1371 more than 40% by value of imports from Genoa were pepper (source: Spices and Late-Medieval European Ideas of Scarcity and Value Paul Freedman).

The Venetians also began to trade with pepper. They increased the selling price of pepper by more than 40% during the 15th century. (Spices and Late-Medieval European Ideas of Scarcity and Value Paul Freedman)

At that time the sources of pepper came mainly from Constantinople, Syria, Cyprus and Alexandria.

Under the leadership of the Portuguese King John the First, Henry the navigator, his son, was the first to push the development of trade and maritime adventure. Subsequently, Vasco da Gama sought a direct sea route to India, discovered in 1497, in order to bypass the Arab monopoly. His goal was to find “Christians and Spices.” The evangelization of the people served as a pretext to control this flourishing trade.

From the 15th century the Portuguese dominated the pepper trade. It is said that between 1500 and 1600 Portugal imported more than 2000 tonnes of pepper per year! (source: Spice Crop EA Weiss)
Portuguese world map
Portuguese world map, Atlas Miller 16th century.

The Renaissance :

Portugal subsequently quickly lost control of its imports because their military and political authority was poorly developed in these colonized lands. Thus, from the 16th century, the Dutch became the main player in the importation and trade of spices, including pepper. During Holland's "golden century", they multiplied trading posts through their famous Dutch East India Company (VOC) in India, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Java.

The price of pepper was then still very high, reaching 20 to 30 g of silver for 1 kg of pepper.

When the British Empire finally established itself in almost all the tropics in the 17th and 18th centuries, it finally took control of the spice trade with the company: the British East India Company, supported by its dominant military forces.

Modern times :

With the fall of the English Empire, with the industrial revolution which facilitated access to routes of communication (sea and land routes), with the development of spice and pepper crops almost everywhere in the world, the course pepper and spices decreased significantly. Pepper and spices thus became accessible to as many people as possible.

In memory of the high cost of pepper and spices, we have inherited some expressions such as “Cher like pepper” or “pay in spices” which gave “pay in cash”.
Today the quest for pepper remains massive with more than 250,000 tonnes produced per year worldwide. There is even a pepper exchange in Cochin (India). Among this production, we find small productions of exceptional grand cru peppers which are noticeably different from mass peppers.